Door Security Bar-by Doorricade-Secure The Entire Width of Your Inward Opening Front Door or Safe Room. fits Doors up to 32" Wide.

I recently replaced my old compressed-wood, funky door barricade with this sleek, seamless aluminum security bar, and I couldn’t be happier. I paid a total of $102.66, including taxes.I bought this for a 32" wide garage security entrance door, and it comes with a 38" bar that fits the entire interior trim. The premium aluminum bar is sturdy, and the heavy-duty stainless-steel brackets are flush against the frame for a clean look. It includes both 1½″ and 3″ screws; I used two of each, outer screws long and inner screws shorter. Solid enough to withstand serious force, IMHO.The installation was quick and easy. It took me under 15 minutes with the clear instructions and labeled handles; it was very easy to assemble. Functionality-wise, the bar easily slides into place and can be adjusted with one hand because of the rubberized grips. The bar weighs in at just under 2 lbs, light enough to handle easily and remove for normal use, with no fumbling or tools needed. A minor issue is that the slot-in bracket has limited movement, which can cause scratches on the bar's finish from metal-on-metal contact if it is moved after being installed. It doesn't impact strength, but I would have appreciated a thicker tolerance or a protective insert to avoid wear over time.This is more than just a decoration; an intruder might break your deadbolt, but this barrier is hidden until needed and nearly impossible to breach without heavy machinery. For me, it’s worth every cent for the combination of style, strength, and simplicity!

What more could a girl ask for, when her ex-husband has broken his restraining order about 20 times and has access to a shotgun? Besides my own gun, a solid wood door, and a good deadbolt as my first line of defense, not much more than a Doorricade!The bar is solid, premium military grade aluminum and when you pick it up, you can tell it's NOT going to fold unless you come at it with a battering ram like in the video, or a wrecking ball, or a C-4 charge, or try to crash your truck through it.The brackets would of course be the so-called weak points of this whole setup, but they are not weak. At. All. Really, really thick stainless steel, each with four screw holes. The kit comes with 3" screws. If you need 1-1/2" screws, you get those too. Nine of each. Goooood LUCK trying to bust these brackets out of the doorframe.It fits great, and it's easy to install. The instructions are simple and easy to follow.Now let's talk security.Nobody is getting past this barricade unless they have a significant amount of force to destroy the brackets, which is not going to be easy AT ALL. Even if they do have that kind of power, the intruder has to KNOW the Dooricade is there in the first place to go after the brackets. (Don't use the sticker that comes in the kit to advertise.)Let's say they blow out your deadbolt and your door handle, or blow a hole through your door and try to reach through to undo the locks.The locks are either gone now or the intruder turned them to get in. Okay. But they don't know you have a Doorricade installed a foot or two either above or below the knob and deadbolt. What now?They thought the lock and deadbolt were the only obstacles. So they don't understand why the door's not pushing in. Unless the hole they blew into your door is huge, they're not even going to SEE the Doorricade in the way.They'd have to be able to stick their head through a big enough hole to see what's going on. Chances are they only made a big enough hole to reach a hand through, because they thought that's as big as they needed to get inside.Now let's say they do see the Doorricade. And try to remove it. Can they reach it where you installed it, first of all? Second, do they know about the security clips that keep the bar from being lifted up? Let's assume they do know about the clips, and everything is within arm's reach. Great. They can open the clip on ONE side, but now they have to blast ANOTHER hole through the OTHER side of the door to undo THAT clip. At this point the police are well on their way, if not at your doorstep already.Bottom line: the Doorricade is INCREDIBLY difficult to break through, and it's a line of defense that an invader wouldn't even know or assume is there to begin with. The element of surprise works in your favor here. Even if they have a serious amount of force to use, the time it would take them to figure it all out, and blow through both sides of this thing -- by then, you already got your loved ones and pets to a safe place inside the home, grabbed your gun, and the police are most likely there already.I love my Doorricade and I feel so much safer with it. This is an absolutely great product! If you take your security seriously at all, you need to have at least one of these. Two thumbs way up.

The bar works well, and easy to install. I feel much safer with it installed. It's easy to use, and seems very strong.

My reason for buying this product is that I wanted to upgrade the house's security against burglars and provide a saferoom for myself and guests incase of a home invasion.The pieces were well packaged and protected from shipping.Removing the door may not be necessary for you installation, but it makes installation much easier. Keep in mind I did this installation myself and rested the door on the bar to get the correct height when reattaching the hinges. You may need a second person to hold the door steady while reattaching it.Before making any holes or cuts, take the hinges and line them up on the door frame. Make sure the hinges won't interfere with the door's ability to open/close, the door latches/locks, or any other hardware. If you don't have enough of a gap between the door and frame to fasten the hinges on top of the frame, you'll need to mortise the hinges.Contrary to the video on the product page, it's highly recommended to mortise the hinges into the frame (Sink the hinge until it's flush) as is what is usually done with door hinges; The hinges are less likely to sag, twist, and fall out over time. The only tools you need to carve out the depression you need is a pencil, wood chisel (about 1" wide), and a mallet/hammer. This process WILL not be reversible if you make a mistake; trace the area to chisel with a pencil while holding the hinge over the area. If you don't want the bare wood look in the mortise area, you can use some spackle to fill-in and level the surface and paint it; I intend to do that later.Make sure the hinges are the same height; In my installation, the door frame was level on both sides. The instructions are very clear on what is needed, and the 1/8" drill bit is recommended as a 3" deep pilot hole; it makes inserting the 3" screws easier and less likely to split the wood.The 3 adhesives and cushioning pad are firm and good quality 3M. Be advised that if the door is unlocked, it can be pushed just enough for someone to look through the gap.Keep in mind the other hinges on my door had 1" screws installed by the home developer; I replaced them with 3" so the door itself can stay on the frame with the bar if it's attacked.The bar itself is a solid piece of aluminum alloy with rubber on the ends to protect your hands and the door finish when setting it up. Steel and harder metals are not really needed here as a solid bar is unlikely to break into pieces. You can unfold the hinges, set the bar in the slot, and position the anti-lift tabs quickly. If you want, you can leave the hinges unfolded and ready for the bar to speed up the process; the hinges don't really come out into the door threshold enough to catch on clothing.Yes, this is pricey for a door reinforcement. If you're concerned about securing a door in this fashion, you likely are considering layering other security devices, such as an improved lock, peephole, etc.